For computer-savvy technophiles – “nerds” – building a computer from the case up is considered a rite of passage. The sense of accomplishment one feels after putting everything together and powering up into a working system for the first time is euphoric.
But this unique sense of euphoria need not be limited to nerdom. Anybody with a little technical know-how and some mechanical aptitude can put computer parts together to make a working system. The hard part is deciding what parts will work with other parts, and how to best put a system together while working within your budget, and that is what this guide will show you.
Most often, the biggest defining aspect of your custom-built computer will be your budget. So naturally, the first step in building your computer will be sitting down and deciding how much you want to spend. Because the individual customer does not have the mass buying power of big-box computer companies, a custom rig costs more than an out-of-the-box computer. Another cost factor is the computer design. The high-end equipment typically used in a gaming rig also costs more than the standard equipment used in an office computer. Your computer budget should be at least $750-1,000; depending on extra bells and whistles, some budgets could be $5,000 or more. As a disclaimer, I am not affiliated with nor endorsed by any of the retailers or manufactures listed below.
Once your budget is done, you can start picking out parts. If you are unsure of where to shop, you can try one of my favorite on-line parts store: http://www.newegg.com/. Going through the plethora of options and variations can be overwhelming at times and will not be a quick or easy process. You should plan on spending up to several days on the entire process.
The base of your system will consist of three main parts: the case, the motherboard, and the processor. The size of your case dictates how much “stuff” you can put in it; your motherboard determines what kind of processor and memory you can use, and your minimum case size; and your processor must fit in your motherboard.
Building upon your base will be your graphics card, memory, storage, and power supply, along with any extras you may want. Finally, allowing you to have fun after all your hard work, is the operating system.
We’ll start by looking at processor choices.
The Processor
The processor, or CPU (central processing unit) or “brains”, is what runs your computer. It is responsible for executing the instructions that make up your programs – the operating system, games, and applications. Generally, the faster your processor can process the instructions, the better your gaming experience.
For modern home computer users, your choice of processors comes down to two brands: AMD and Intel. For gamers, the choice is usually AMD. Because the processor is a key part of your system, you will want to read numerous reviews and choose carefully before buying.
When choosing a processor, there are several factors that indicate how well it will perform in your new system. The overall measure of a processor is the speed at which it runs, nowadays measured in gigahertz (GHz; 1.0GHz = 1,000MHz). In simple terms, this is the measure of how many clock cycles the processor runs in a second, with each clock cycle allowing the processor to execute one instruction. This means that a modern 3.0GHz processor can execute up to three billion instructions per second (actual performance is based on what instructions are being executed, among other things).
Another big indicator of performance is the processor’s cache. The level 1 cache (L1) is an ultra-fast memory built into the processor, holding the sequence of instructions ready for the processor to execute. The bigger the L1 cache is, the less time the processor will have to wait for new commands. Other cache levels include L2 and L3; as with the L1 cache, bigger is better.
Finally, you will need to pay attention to the front-side bus (FSB) speed, measured in either MHz or GHz. The higher this number, the faster the processor can communicate with the other components of your system (expansion cards, memory). You will also need to ensure that your motherboard’s FSB matches your processor’s FSB, or your system may not function.
You do not want to buy the highest-end processor available, due to the rate at which new CPU technology is being released. The $1,000 chip you buy today will be selling for under $500 in less than a year. For a safe bet, buy the best CPU you can get for $200-300, depending on your budget; smaller budgets may be restricted to a nice $150 model, which should still function adequately. For a modern gaming machine, a sub-$100 processor will not provide enough power.
The Motherboard
The motherboard, also called a mainboard and sometimes abbreviated as MoBo, is what ties all of your components together. You will need to get a board that will work with your processor. In some instances you may get a discount by purchasing a CPU/Motherboard combo, which also ensures you that the two will work together.
If you opt for purchasing the two separately, the primary concern for compatibility is the processor socket type – something along the lines of “Socket AM2″ or “LGA 775″. This will be listed in the processor description, and is what you need to look for in your motherboard. You will also need to look at the FSB speed of the mainboard, to ensure it is compatible with your processor.
Other considerations for choosing your motherboard include the chipset and supported memory. The MoBo chipset, also referred to as the Northbridge and/or Southbridge, controls communications between various parts of the system. Because the chipset controls communications between the CPU and your graphics card, among other components, it is best to make them mesh as best as possible. If you plan to use an nVidia graphics card, go with an nVidia chipset; for an ATI or non-nVidia graphics card, use a non-nVidia chipset.
The amount and type of memory supported by your motherboard will be determined by both the physical capacity of the motherboard, and the capacity of the CPU itself. As of this writing, most modern motherboards will support DDR2, while some leading-edge boards support DDR3. As with choosing a processor, it is best not to go with cutting-edge products.
You will also want to consider storage options when looking for a motherboard. The most common storage options for home use include IDE and SATA, and the included ports will be listed in the motherboard description.
Other options to consider include “on-board” options included in the mainboard. Most will include a network connection option, usually wired (included in the motherboard description as 10/100/1000 LAN) and sometimes wireless (included in the motherboard description as 801.11b/g/n or WiFi). Some motherboards also include a decent on-board sound processor, eliminating the need to purchase a separate sound card. They will also include a number of USB connectors (internal and external), and possibly other component connectors such as 1394 (Firewire) or external SATA.
Your motherboard will generally be in the same price range as your processor. For a $200-300 processor, look for a $200-300 motherboard to get the best performance; for a $150-200 processor, a $150-200 motherboard will work, as you won’t see much gain from a $300 mainboard. My preferred MoBo manufacturer is ASUS, although Gigabyte and MSI also make good boards.
The Case
Some builders will choose all the components for their system, and then find a suitable case. Others will find their perfect case, and choose their components accordingly. Your individual needs and tastes will dictate the kind of builder you become and, in the meantime, the type of case you pick.
My personal preference is for a large case (ATX Full Tower). I have big hands, so I like to have lots of room to maneuver if I need to adjust something. Others prefer a smaller case with a less-noticeable footprint (ATX Mid Tower). Large cases generally cost more and weigh more, but can also hold more equipment and have more air space for circulation. Smaller cases cost a little less and weigh less, and take up less space on your desk.
Beware of buying a case and power supply combo. The power supply adds a significant amount of weight to your shipping cost and adds to the overall cost of the case, but the included unit will generally be cheap model that will need to be replaced for your final system.
Beyond just a housing for system components, gamers’ computer cases have also become outlets for personal expression. Referred to as case mods, there are many options for adding side-panel windows, lighting effects, and other decorations. There are countless do-it-yourself options, as well as some cases including built-in windows or other mods.
There is no “best” case manufacturer – generally, each one targets a specific look, aiming for niche in the market. Some sturdy cases come from Antec and Coolermaster, as well as Thermaltake and RAIDMax. For a standard case, $80-100 will get you pretty far; full-tower cases cost more, and built-in windows will add to the price, but you should still be good with under $200. Lian-Li is known for making sleek, reliable designer cases, and will cost more, with some selling for $600.
Graphics Card
The graphics card, or video card, converts the commands generated by the game into instructions that will be understood by your monitor. The major players in the graphics card industry are ATI and nVidia, each with roughly equal market shares over the years. The traditional setups have been either Intel processors with nVidia chipsets and graphics, or AMD processors with AMD chipsets and ATI graphics. ATI is now owned by AMD, strengthening the traditional relationships even more.
As with everything else mentioned in this article, it is best not to go with the latest and greatest when it comes to video cards. Rather than dropping $600 for cutting-edge graphics, plan to spend between $100-250, depending on how much performance you want. You will typically get better gaming performance from a card with faster memory and more of it, and from a faster graphics processing unit (GPU). Memory speed is named by number, with “GDDR5″ being faster than “GDDR3″, while the GPU speed is measured the same as your CPU speed in MHz or GHz. Memory size is given in MB or GB, with one GB (gigabyte) being 1,024 MB (megabytes).
You will also need to ensure your graphics card is compatible with your motherboard. As of this writing, modern graphics cards are typically designed for the PCI-express bus, often expressed as “PCI-e x1″ to “PCI-e x16″. Your motherboard description will state what kind of slots it has, and how many of each. Some systems are designed to allow two or more graphics cards to work together, called Crossfire (ATI) or SLI (nVidia). If you choose to use this technology, make sure your motherboard will support it, and purchase two identical graphics cards that support the technology. Although you will get a noticeable performance boost, the question typically comes down to price. As with most products, reviews and ratings will generally give you the best idea of which card will suit you.
My personal preference is for an ATI card in an AMD setup, but the market has always been split about even. Sometimes your video card choice will be based on your CPU choice, sticking to the tradition of ATI with AMD or nVidia with Intel.
One thing to keep in mind is that ATI and nVidia do not actually manufacture video cards – they only produce the chipsets that go into the cards. The actual cards are made by a variety of manufacturers. Purchasing a video card made by the same company that built your motherboard (such as an ASUS mainboard with an ASUS graphics card) usually works out well.
Memory
The memory in your system, or RAM (random access memory), is the working area for the processor. When your system runs out of memory that it can use, it begins using the hard drive as a sort of extra memory (called virtual memory). However, accessing the hard drive is much slower than accessing RAM. For this reason, the more memory you have in your system, the better performance you will see.
As of this writing, the most common types of memory available to the home consumer are DDR and DDR-2 (double data rate), with DDR-2 giving better performance than DDR-1. Remember that you can only install memory that your motherboard and processor will support, and DDR-2 is not compatible with DDR-1.
The first thing to look at when purchasing memory is your supported type. DDR-2 is not backwards compatible with DDR-1 – your motherboard will only support one or the other. The second is memory bus speed, expressed as either a number in megahertz (such as 400MHz) or a PC number (such as PC3200). Your motherboard and/or processor will support certain memory speeds, with higher numbers being faster. You will most often get the best performance out of your system by installing the highest-speed memory your system will support. Some prefer to stay one step under the maximum, due to possible system instability; however, this is most often seen with overclocking the system (making it run faster than designed), so by leaving the factory settings intact you should have no problems.
Memory is becoming much cheaper than it used to be, with people now being able to purchase 4GB of memory for just over $50. Most modern motherboards will support 8-16GB of memory, with some supporting up to 32GB. 2-4GB will get you by for quite some time, but don’t be afraid to max out your memory as much as your budget will allow.
There are numerous memory manufacturers, and the majority of them are reliable. Gamers tend to gravitate towards the best manufacturer at the time, so you can get a good idea of who to buy to looking at gaming rig discussion boards or asking around. Corsair and G.SKILL are both well-known by gamers, and Kingston has been around for a long time.
Storage
Storage for your system is where data is physically stored and accessed. The base for storage is your hard drive, but you will also need a CD-ROM in order to install any new programs.
Your hard drive is where most all of the data in your system will be stored – pictures, documents, music, applications. The two main concerns with choosing a hard drive are interface and size.
Your motherboard will have built-in support for certain hard drive interfaces. As of this writing, the two main ones used in home computing are IDE (Integrated Device Electronics) or SATA (Serial Advanced Technology Attachment). SATA is considerably faster than the IDE interface, while still being comparable in price and continually getting less expensive. It is important to get the correct hard drive(s) for your system, as the two interfaces are not interchangeable. Some motherboards include support for both interfaces, while many new designs offer support for only SATA.
For hard drive size, it comes down to your intended use for your system. For a strictly gaming rig, the only storage space you need is for your operating system and installed games, allowing you to get by with a meager size of around 180GB. However, if you plan to also put your entire music collection on your computer, along with family videos and your photo collection, you can soon run out of space using a 300GB hard drive. Many people are starting to opt for installing a smaller internal hard drive of 180GB or less, and using external storage solutions for music and photos.
You will also need an optical disc drive in order to install, among other things, your operating system. As prices have continued to drop on technology, most people are now opting to install a “super multi-drive” – properly a DVD+/-RW/CD-RW (DVD plus-minus read/write/re-write and CD read/write/re-write). This type of drive will allow you to read standard CDs as well as DVDs, plus write (or burn) your own CDs and DVDs, including CD/DVD re-writable discs.
Your hard drive cost will vary depending on what size you choose, with larger drives costing more. Budgeting $50 will get you a nice 180GB drive, while building a multi-terabyte system will cost upwards of $200. Choosing your brand mostly comes down to personal preference, with the major players being Western Digital and Seagate, with Samsung gaining popularity. My personal preference is for Western Digital, primarily because that’s what I grew up with and what I use now. However, between various manufacturers, there are only negligible differences, making the choice come down to a matter of personal preference.
A decent super multi-drive will come in around $25, while other options such as LightScribe will add to the cost. With a higher budget, you may opt for a BluRay rewritable drive, which are currently priced around $200-300.
Power Supply
For the majority of people, the power supply is often the last thing picked when building a new system, given little thought or attention. Although it is also the last component mentioned in this article, it should by no means be chosen without thought or attention.
The job of the power supply is, on paper, simple: supplying power to the system mainboard and attached internal devices. In reality, however, this simple task is quite complex. The current coming from your outlet is generally 120VAC @ 60Hz – the killer being “generally”. The power being sent over the lines and through your home fluctuates and is usually not noticeable. But your computer does not like power fluctuations. The job of the power supply is to take this fluctuating, 120 volt alternating current and turn it into a steady, 12 volt direct current.
Power supply technology has changed very little over the years, and it is something that will always give you your money’s worth – a cheap power supply will function like a cheap power supply, and an expensive power supply will (should) function like an expensive power supply. As with other items, customer reviews will reveal much truth.
When picking a power supply, the number given the most attention is wattage output – how much “power” is in the power supply. Most daily-use home computers have a 200-300W power supply. For your gaming rig, pick at least a 500W unit. The more connected devices you have in your system, the more power you will need – every extra card, drive, and fan takes a little more power. And a power supply is something that can be “upgrade proofed” – if you plan to add more trinkets as your computer grows with you, plan accordingly and get a bigger power supply. Some gaming rigs feature a 1,000W power supply to make sure everything stays running.
You will also need to ensure your power supply will support your hardware. If you use a PCI-e video card, SATA hard drive, or decide to go with Crossfire or SLI video, you will need special connectors. Your power supply description will have a list of all the connectors available.
As with memory, Corsair also makes good power supplies; you will also get a good product from Antec or CoolerMaster (both who also make cases). Zalman is known for building quieter supplies, a plus if your trying to create a low-noise machine.
Extras
One critical, but often overlooked, aspect of building a computer is heating and cooling. Every component in your system generates heat, and that heat must be removed. The most common method of cooling a computer is through fans. Your case will probably have several fan mounts available, and may have some fans already installed. Your power supply has a built-in fan, and your processor will also come with a fan. But cooling is one area where you can never have too much of a good thing. The only other consideration is noise. One alternative option is to use liquid cooling – but that is an involved process not intended for the new computer builder.
Along with cooling, there are many options for heat dissipaters, to make your fans more effective. One example of a dissipater is the heatsink on top of your processor. You can also get a dissipater for your memory modules, your hard drives, even your video card. Because heat is the killer of computers, it is always a wise choice to invest in cooling options.
You may also want to consider other expansion cards. Some motherboards have decent built-in sound, or you may want to look into getting a SoundBlaster. You can also get cards for video capture, watching TV, or just about anything.
Other extras include case lighting and other case mods – but case modding is an article all its own. Another handy extra to place in your order is a computer technician’s toolkit. It will have all of the tools you need to build a new computer.
Operating System
The operating system, or OS, is the first piece of software that you will install on your new computer. For a gaming rig, you will use a Windows flavor – usually XP or Vista as of this writing.
Putting It All Together
So, you’ve placed your oder, and your new computer has arrived on your doorstep – except in pieces that you have to put together.
Assembling a computer is an involved process, and will take several hours. If this is your first time playing inside a computer, I recommend getting your nerdy friend to help you. Trust me – even though we hate when people ask “I need help with my computer”, we go ecstatic when somebody says “I need help building my new computer.”
The first thing to do is find a workspace. You will want enough room for your case, plus everything else in easy reach. Someplace that makes it easy to repeatedly sit and stand is also a plus. Avoid anyplace with static-prone surfaces, such as certain plastic tables or carpets. An ideal surface is a wooden table. You can also get a neoprene shelf liner – the kind that looks like a bunch of rubber squares connected at the corners. Not only is it anti-static, but it makes a great non-slip and non-scratch surface to hold all your new goodies.
Once you have a good work surface, open everything up and spread everything out. Look over every item and ensure it is in proper condition – if you ordered a new item, it should be in new condition. Refurbished or secondhand (eBay) items may not be new, but should still be in good shape.
After everything has been inspected, you are ready to begin assembling your new computer. If you have a nerd or other friend helping you, make sure they understand that you want to build it – you just need them there to help you. We often get excited and try to take over when playing with new gadgets.
Start with the base of your system – the case, motherboard, and processor. You may want to take a bit and explore the case – they often come with extra goodies, such as front-mount USB or sound connectors.
Lay your case down on the table and open it up. There will be several studs (risers) sticking up from what is currently the bottom – this is the motherboard tray. On the motherboard, you will notice one side filled with various external connectors – this is the back. Your motherboard may have come with a special “I/O grate” – a piece of punched-out metal that likes to cut you. If your case came with one installed, it easily pushes out, and the new one pushes in.
Carefully lay the motherboard into the tray, ensuring the holes in the board line up with the risers. You will have to gently push the external connectors through the appropriate holes in the I/O grill.
The next step is to anchor the motherboard to the tray. Screws will have been included with either the case or the board, possibly both. These go through the holes in the board and tighten into the risers. Be careful not to over-tighten, as circuit boards crack easily.
The processor socket should be easily identifiable. When you prepare to place the processor in the socket, take note of the “key pin”. There is usually one corner without a pin, with a corresponding space on the socket, identifying the correct orientation of the processor. Depending on the type of socket you are using, the processor should insert with little to no force, and then lock into the socket. The heatsink and fan then clip on over the processor.
Memory is inserted in the slots located close to the processor. There will be clips on the slots – one on each side. Ensure these clips are open (pushed outwards). You will also notice a key slot in the memory module – ensure this lines up with the key on the slot. As you push the module into the slot, the clips on the sides will come and push on the module. It takes a relatively considerable amount of force to insert the modules, so ensure you are pushing straight in without twisting or bending. Once you hear the snap of the clips, the module is seated.
Your video card will go in one of the expansion slots located towards the back and bottom of the mainboard. It will usually go into the slot located nearest the CPU. However, if your board has multiple graphics options (PCI, PCI-e, and AGP), you may have to consult your motherboard manual for instructions on which slots are what type. Make sure to remove the slot cover from the case before installing the card. The card will insert straight down into the slot, with a gentle rocking motion in the long axis. Once seated, your card may have a retaining device that needs to be secured. You will also need to put in a screw where the card meets the case, although some cases feature a special screwless retaining clip.
Hard drives will mount in the smaller bays generally located at the front of the case. Some cases have special bays located elsewhere; other cases have proprietary retention devices that you will need to install onto your drive before installing into the case. Consult your case documentation or local nerd for extra help. For standard bays, the drive will easily slide in, and is then secured by four screws – two on each side. You may need to remove the other side panel on the case in order to secure the opposite screws. Make sure the screws are tight but do not overtighten. You will need to connect the drives to the motherboard with the appropriate cables. These should be included with the drive. There is no standard location, so consult your motherboard manual for the proper connections and locations. Your optical drive and extra bay devices will install in a similar manner.
Finally, the power supply. This is generally inserted from the open side of the case towards the top. Some case designs have odd locations for the unit. Once installed, the power supply is secured by four screws that go in from outside the case, making sure to not overtighten. You will need to connect the power supply to your mainboard and the drives using the appropriate connectors. Each connector will only fit onto what it was designed for, and will only fit one way.
You will also need to connect the power switch to the motherboard. Your case probably has extra connections as well, such as a reset button and various lights. These connections may be marked on the motherboard, or you can consult your manual.
Finally, the moment you’ve been waiting for! Everything is put together properly, all devices are connected. You’ve hooked up your monitor and the mouse and keyboard, and your computer is plugged into power. You hit the switch, wait for everything to start up, and… your computer beeps at you, complaining “No Operating System Found.” Insert your Windows Install disc into your CD/DVD drive, and restart the computer (power off/on). It will guide you through the rest.
Congratulations
Building your first computer is an extremely rewarding experience. Whether you decide to save money and stick to a tight budget, or go all out and get cutting-edge equipment, you will have the satisfaction of knowing this really is your computer – not just a computer off the shelf that was put together by a factory machine.
This guide is by no means complete, and will only help you get your computer system built. There are numerous other items that go into an ultimate gaming rig – the monitor, surround-sound speakers, game controllers, even a customized keyboard and game pad. When you build your own computer, the blessing and the curse is that you pick out everything yourself.
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